SUIP!

The Cock House is one of Grahamstown’s best known bed and breakfasts, not only for its country charm and it being Nelson Mandela’s favourite place to stay in town, but also because it has the word “cock” in its name and, well, Grahamstown’s a student town. But looking past its very worthy associations with both Madiba and male appendages, the Cock House is also probably one of the City of Saints’ few culinary pearls.

Once owned by esteemed writer André Brink during the 1970s (and he was just one among a long line of rather illustrious previous owners and benefactors) the Cock House was declared a National Monument in the 1990s while under foreign ownership. Although it’s been subject to many renovations and restorations over the decades - well, more accurately centuries, I suppose - its remains an irresistibly charming example of 19th century settler architecture: all fitted teak, french doors, satisfyingly squeaky floorboards and slathered in beautiful old paintings and photographs. Although I can’t speak much for the bed and breakfast portion of the establishment, it’s by far and away the most beautiful bar and restaurant in Grahamstown.

And it’s probably the best place to eat here, too. Although there are some firm favourites – the steak with Madagascar green peppercorn sauce and pork belly (with some cracking crackling) come to mind – the fashionably small menu (literally only a dozen or so items shared between three courses) changes regularly, offering at least one fish dish and one vegetarian dish. Grahamstown is notorious for bad fish, but the linefish here is always fresh and cooked superbly.

The deserts are where it’s at, though. Over the half-dozen or so times I’ve been to the Cock House, I’ve enjoyed such decadences as dark chocolate and ginger souffle, duo creme brulées and – the best so far – hot apple crumble floating in a pond of the most moreish vanilla custard imaginable.

The beer selection is also the best for miles. In addition to a good range of beers from SAB, the Cock House also stocks three beers from Gilroy’s Brewery in Roodepoort, Gauteng. I generally have all three when I go to dinner here: the Traditional is an Irish Ruby Ale, which is delightfully soft-bodied and laced with sour fruit; the Favourite is an amber, fruity and almost biscuity Pale Ale; and the Serious is a superbly satisfying Strong Ale with a whack of acidity, roasted malt and light nuttiness. All three are delicious and complement the produce of the Cock House’s kitchen perfectly. For this part of the Eastern Cape, it’s a remarkably refreshing thing. It almost makes you feel like you’re not in this old pokey university town.

But, you know, it’s still Grahamstown outside, and there’s no escaping that. Thankfully, the Cock House remains unpretentious, warm, genial and relatively unrefined, which is the way it should be around here. Grahamstown is full of places that strive to be big city-style institutions, but there’s no use pretending. And that’s why the Cock House is perfect the way it is: it retains a perfect balance of kitsch, homeliness and just a touch of modernity.

And the good beer list helps, too.

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The Cock House

10 Market Street, Grahamstown